Wine expert Elizabeth Hawthornthwaite looks to the female founders blazing a trail in the world of wine and rounds up her favourite bottles.
Words: Elizabeth Hawthornthwaite. Images: various brands.
Do you ever wonder about the people who made the bottle of wine you’re enjoying? The subject of women in wine fascinates me. Like many industries, the wine world was traditionally male-dominated, but this has changed in recent years, and there are now some fabulous female winemakers creating wonderful wines.
It’s interesting to consider how the different perspectives and approaches of men and women in winemaking might affect the end product in the bottle. Wineries are often family businesses, and in many regions, the inheritance is passed to male children. It was commonly thought that men knew more about wine than women, and there was a “need not apply” culture for women in the winemaking business – unless it was in administrative or sales and marketing functions. After all, what do women know about wine?!
Indeed, the relationship between the sexes and alcohol has long been fraught. In Roman times, if a woman was found drinking, her husband was permitted to kill or divorce her! In seventeenth- and eighteenth-century Europe, women weren’t allowed into taverns, whereas men were allowed to frequent alehouses, fraternise with prostitutes and, of course, drink to their heart’s content!
Even today, some believe that menstruating women should be banned from the wine cellar in case their presence turns the wine to vinegar. And if you think this is just an old tale, think again – it was said to Emma Wise, one of the top current famous English winemakers, just a few years ago. The talented Cherie Spriggs, head winemaker at Nyetimber, was told that she’d make a pretty secretary!
The crazy thing is that on the consumption side, women outspend men every time. Research consistently shows that not only do women buy more wine than men, but they also have a stronger preference for it. Indeed, when it comes to Champagne – a symbol of celebration and sophistication – women lead in consumption. There are also more women working in the Champagne region than men. This statistic is fascinating, considering the stereotype that men traditionally know more about wine than women.
The female touch
But is there a difference in terms of how men and women make wine? I believe that there is. All you need to do is look at how women care for the land – women tend to work in as environmentally friendly a way as possible. They want their children to run through the vines safely. Wines made by women are more refined, approachable, and a real expression of time and place.
As the great female wine writer Jancis Robinson wrote in 2020: ‘South African winemaker Samantha O’Keefe of Lismore persuaded [me] that women’s superior tasting sensitivity affects the minutiae of her winemaking decisions and results in a substantive difference from the less subtle way her male counterparts make wine.’
Despite the modernisation of the winemaking process, it remains a people business at heart. So next time you open a bottle, spare a thought for the person who made the wine. She just might be a wonderful woman in wine!
If you want to sample the work of our wonderful women in wine, here are four bottles made by female makers that I admire.
The Long Road Syrah by Sam O’Keefe at Lismore, £18, tesco.com.
Sam moved to the Western Cape of South Africa from California in 2000 and established her own wine brand, Lismore, in 2003. She planted her vineyards on the slopes of a dramatic mountain range in a previously unknown region. Her focus and passion are cool-climate, elegant, classically styled wines that speak with a distinct voice and tell the story of their terroir. I am so pleased to find a more affordable range now in Tesco. Look out for this syrah – it offers amazing value for money.
Cloudline Pinot Noir 2022, Domaine Drouhin Oregon by Véronique Drouhin, £21.85, vinvm.co.uk.
At age 10, Véronique Drouhin took her inspiration from Laurence Jobard, the first female winemaker in France. Véronique joined her father at Maison Drouhin in 1972, one of the most respected wineries in Burgundy (their ancient cellars under the town centre are incredible!). In 1989, she saw the potential to create Burgundian-style wines in Oregon, and since then she has made over 30 vintages. In this pinot, we find vibrant red cherries, cranberry and light spices.
Samuel’s Collection Eden Valley Viognier, Yalumba by Louisa Rose, £16.50, vinvm.co.uk.
Louisa Rose is head winemaker and head of sustainability at Yalumba, and during her time there, she has become one of the world’s most respected winemakers. In her spare time, she helps her partner Warren on their 350-hectare Eden Valley farm, where they run sheep and cattle and grow their own veggies. My favourite is her viognier as it’s rich and indulgent, with intense stone fruit, spice and honey flavours, finishing with a satisfying finish.
Wynns “The Siding” Cabernet Sauvignon by Sue Hodder, £15.50, tesco.com.
The Coonawarra area is tiny – only 34 people live in this famous wine region! One of those people is Sue Hodder, who has been head winemaker at Wynns for 27 years. Sue is now one of the longest-standing and most celebrated winemakers in Australia. This wine is special because of its location and climate, with famous Terra Rossa red soil – if you rub it in your hands, your palms will go red. I love the black fruits in Sue’s cab sav – blackberry, cherry and cedary oak balance with lovely freshness and sage. It’s easy to sip.
Elizabeth Hawthornthwaite is a wine expert and founder of Elizabeth & Wine, which offers wine experiences and client events in the UK and abroad.
With more than 15 years’ experience as a wine expert and former sommelier, Elizabeth is on a mission to empower women to feel more confident in their wine choices through tips, tastings and travel.
For more information, visit elizabethandwine.com and follow @elizabethwinegirl.
